카야주의 수도 로이코 ( 영문)

MAGAZINE-LIFESTYLE

Loikaw’s Quiet Allure

By CHRISTOPHER IAN SMITH / THE IRRAWADDY| Saturday, December 13, 2014 |

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Wide open spaces dotted with charming architecture add to Loikaw’s appeal. (Photo: Christopher Ian Smith)

LOIKAW, Kayah State — Cabbages spilled over the back of my bus seat, but I was too busy watching the scenery to care.

The sights I passed on the road into Loikaw, the capital of Kayah State, included gorgeous views of rice paddies and teak fields, then Christian churches, military bases, mountaintop pagodas and the lovely Moebye Lake, twice the size of the more famous Inle Lake to the north.

It quickly became obvious why some effort had gone into removing the need for permits to visit Loikaw. Travelers are going to go nuts for this place. From friends who had previously visited here, I had heard that this newly-opened region offered waterfalls, caves, volcanic lakes, mountaintop pagodas and home-visits to a vast array of ethnic groups, including the Padaung, the group whose female members famously often wear rings around their necks.

Kayah State—Myanmar’s smallest—has largely been off-limits to foreigners due to long-running conflict between the Myanmar Army and local ethnic armed groups. The state’s largest ethnic armed group, the Karenni National Progressive Party, signed a ceasefire deal with the government in March 2012. However, the legacy of conflict lingers on. According to the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees, reports indicate that all seven townships in Kayah State have been contaminated by landmines.

I arrived by local bus from Kalaw in Shan State; quite the experience, but I admit, not the most efficient choice of transport. As you come into Loikaw, you are immediately struck by the majestic mountaintop Taung Kwe Pagoda which dominates the town to impressive effect. Loikaw had a similar feel to Hpa-an, the capital of Kayin State, but with a better-looking infrastructure.

I asked to be dropped off at the first guesthouse I saw, but an employee told me that it did not have a license to accept foreigners. It turned out that there were about a half-dozen foreigner-friendly guesthouses in Loikaw but they were each located far from one another and most were already booked out by locals.

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After a healthy cover of sweat thanks to the detailed but not-to-scale map of Loikaw available at every guesthouse, I managed to find a room and was pleasantly surprised at the high quality (relative to Yangon). My bathroom was clean with hot water and a bathtub. There was air-conditioning and the price included breakfast.

Asking around, I discovered that there were no motorbikes or bicycles for rent in the city, just guides for hire at US$25-35 per day. Luckily, as I pondered my options over a beer at a lakeside beer station, a local university student with a mohawk and a motorbike joined me and offered to show me around. He rattled off a list of the sights that I should see: “You have to visit the mountain pagodas, Kyet Cave, Umbrella Lake, and we can visit the market tomorrow where the Padaung sell their rice-wine.” Foreign visitors are still a novelty here.

For me, the chain of hilltop pagodas was the most exciting novelty. First, we headed up to the famous Taung Kwe Pagoda. If it’s not the sight of the pagoda, it’s the sight from the pagoda that can leave you a bit breathless. It’s the crown jewel of a chain of pagodas that includes Myaka Lup Pagoda, Shwe Let War Pagoda and Nagayon Pagoda. Each one offers its own elegance and experience, but the incredible views of the city, valley and Shan mountain range are what make them spectacular.

The next day, the not-to-scale map disappointed again when it became obvious that Kyet Cave was not a couple of blocks away from the airport, but a very long drive from the town. The journey, though, was charming; through beautiful teak and rice fields, as well as ancient ceremonial grounds where “spirit poles” called Kayhto Bo, still used annually for animistic ceremonies, stick up 15 feet into the air.

Kyet Cave, also known as “Yarsu Ku,” is watched over by an old monk with arguably the happiest face in existence. He was very willing to light up the cave if you brought him a jug of petrol for the generator. Inside, I saw the cave’s mysterious coffins sprinkled around in various states of condition. There are many different stories and theories, though no general consensus, on why they are there. The happy monk just shrugged and said he didn’t know where they came from.

Another long drive away from the town is Htee-pwint-kan, also known as Umbrella Lake, which is actually a small volcanic pond. The pressure from below intermittently lifts parts of the soil above the surface of the water, creating the “umbrella” effect that gives the lake its nickname. The span of time for this event can stretch out over a couple of days and whether you see it or not depends solely on luck. According to local lore, seeing seven of these “umbrellas” at once is considered an extremely lucky sign and your best chance is during a full moon.

My mohawk-sporting informal guide told me that the Padaung village could be visited only with a permit and an official guide but that the villagers commonly visited local markets to sell their wares. Here, if you avoid any style of behavior that could be construed as gawking, you may be lucky enough to sit and have a cup of sweet fermented rice wine with them.

Before ending my trip, I scaled the steps of Taung Kwe Pagoda one more time to watch the sunset. At this time of day, the railings become dotted with locals and visitors with the same idea—to watch the valley turn golden, across the rooftops of churches and mosques, and all the way across the fields to the Shan mountain range.

Visitors should note that permits and official guides are still required in order to visit areas outside of Loikaw. Kayah State, full of natural resources and local ethnic groups, needs a secure peace before it will become truly open. For now, with that proviso, Loikaw is still a lovely place to visit.

Brief info

Getting there:

I traveled by slow local bus from Kalaw on a 12-hour journey for US$12. More comfortable air conditioned buses depart from Yangon and Mandalay and take 16-18 hours for about $12-18. The train, cheaper than the bus and rumored to have great views, takes nearly 24 hours from Naypyitaw. Myanmar Airways has several flights a week from Yangon to Loikaw that cost around $73. But be warned that these flights can often be canceled up to 24 hours ahead of time due to low occupancy.

Staying there:

The cheapest places to stay start at $25 per night and include the Nan Ayar Inn, the Loikaw Princess Guesthouse and Min Ma Haw. They are clean and rooms are well equipped with furnishings and air-conditioning and come with a standard simple breakfast of toast and eggs. Bathrooms are clean with hot water, mirrors and western toilets. The city’s only “high-end” hotel, Hotel Loikaw (http://www.hotelloikaw.com), sits on the edge of the lake, overlooking the golf course and goes for $60-80 per night.

This story first appeared in the December 2014 print edition of The Irrawaddy Magazine.